The Sailing Paradise of St Vincent and the Grenadines: An Explorer’s Dream
The Allure of Iconic Sailing
Few places on Earth can proudly claim the title of an iconic sailing destination, but St Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) certainly shines in this regard. This captivating chain of 32 picturesque Caribbean islands offers a unique blend of line-of-sight sailing, dependable tradewinds, a kaleidoscope of island experiences, and crystal-clear waters. For sailors of all backgrounds, SVG represents the perfect playground, though navigating these waters poses challenges worth discussing.
Sailing aboard our Lagoon 46 across the Caribbean, we had made it our goal to explore SVG as part of our journey from Trinidad to the US, covering over 1,500 miles and more than 20 countries. Although we had allocated two weeks for this enchanting archipelago, the short span barely scratched the surface of what these islands have to offer.
Charter Dreamland
SVG is a magnet for charter boats and sailing events, including the World ARC and various cruising rallies. Notably, popular anchoring spots like the Tobago Cays can attract more than 3,000 boats in a season. Arriving in early November, shortly after the hurricane season, we noticed that some anchorages were already quite crowded. The coastline, however, provides numerous alternative spots, making it essential for us to have backup plans in place for our daily routes.
Our journey commenced at Chatham Bay on Union Island, a unique spot since you can check in right from this scenic anchorage. Union has shown remarkable resilience following Hurricane Beryl and was visibly rebuilding its local businesses. We were eager to contribute to this recovery, particularly enjoying a beach barbecue alongside local chefs Vanessa and Seckie.
The Anchor’s Choice
In SVG, anchoring options are diverse. While mooring balls are plentiful throughout the Caribbean, we prefer dropping anchor whenever feasible. Our trust in our Rocna anchor was put to the test in Chatham, where a nearby boat experienced a mooring ball failure. Despite this, our stay at Union Island was delightful, filled with serene days spent on the boat and refreshing snorkelling adventures in the pristine waters.
Navigating the Windward Islands posed its own set of challenges, often requiring us to adjust our sailing tactics. With a typical wind speed in the 20s during this season, we found ourselves sailing at an apparent wind angle of 40-45°. Coupled with a west-setting current, our journey to the renowned Tobago Cays was swift yet intense, leading us to reef our sails and prepare for an exhilarating adventure.
The Jewel of the Grenadines
The Tobago Cays, a five-island paradise, are often celebrated as the crown jewel of the Grenadines. Their natural beauty resonates with memories of our past explorations in French Polynesia. However, we were informed by fellow sailors that the protective reef had sustained damage from Hurricane Beryl, leading to potentially uncomfortable anchorage conditions at high tide. Despite the wind picking up to 15-20 knots, we enjoyed the coastline, which teemed with vibrant marine life, including turtles, stingrays, and myriads of tropical fish.
An important lesson arose from our time at the Cays, highlighting the necessity of being vigilant while snorkelling. One encounter with a local “boat boy” navigating in the area nearly resulted in an accident when he unintentionally ran into my brother while he was in the water. Thankfully, our party remained safe, but it served as a reminder to stay alert.
Bequia: A Welcoming Embrace
Our next intended destination was Mustique, frequented by the likes of Mick Jagger and Princess Margaret. However, given the challenging conditions with high winds necessitating difficult tacks, we opted for a spontaneous diversion to Bequia. Tucked behind Canouan, we relished a dynamic sail, taking full advantage of the coastal winds.
Bequia wowed us with its charm. The bustling town of Port Elizabeth, framed by rolling hills that cascade into a turquoise bay, offered everything from delectable dining to scenic hikes. The local “boat boys” had diversified their services, providing not only supplies but also diesel fuel, fresh water, and delicious baked goods.
Culturally distinct, Bequia has roots deeply embedded in the whaling tradition. We visited a small museum where passionate volunteers shared historical insights about their unique practices, even serenading us with traditional songs sung when whales are spotted offshore.
Immersing in Local Culture
Our nights in Bequia were filled with unforgettable experiences. Despite arriving during the political election season, we wanted to explore the local nightlife. We discovered a karaoke bar teeming with the sounds of celebration and laughter. It was a distinct yet welcoming environment, allowing us to forge connections with local residents and fellow sailors.
Despite our fun-filled adventures, the crowded anchorage provided some challenges. When anchoring, our first spot proved less than ideal upon inspection, as the sandy layer above hard rock didn’t promise secure holding. A quick repositioning allowed us to settle into a more secure patch near the beach, yet the small bay quickly filled with other vessels, leading to tight quarters that tested the limits of nautical etiquette among frantic sailers.
Navigating to St Vincent
The sail from Bequia to St Vincent wasn’t without its challenges. We initially motored away from the anchorage before hoisting our sails, but powerful wind refraction complicated our plans. Despite the unexpected squalls, the stunning sights around us continued to uplift our spirits.
While many choose to bypass the mainland, St Vincent’s coastline held allure for us. After a few anchorage hops, we made our way to Wallilabou, famously known as a filming location for Pirates of the Caribbean. The local boat boys expertly helped us tie up to shore, leading to an amusing experience at the immigration office housed within the film set.
Later, we stumbled upon a gem of a restaurant operated by an enterprising local, Zico. His mother prepared the delicious meals, making it a cozy dining option where stories were shared among cruisers.
Memories under the Stars
Our final morning in SVG began at dawn as we prepared to set sail for St Lucia. The adventure concluded with an exhilarating passage punctuated by squalls and the stunning sight of playful sperm whales, reflecting the rich experiences SVG had given us.
In two short weeks, we barely scratched the surface of this enchanting region, always leaving us eager for more. The realm of crystal-clear waters and vibrant sunsets served as the backdrop to our sailing journey, yet it was the authentic encounters with local culture and fellow sailors that truly highlighted our time in St Vincent and the Grenadines. Each visit feels like merely a prelude to the deeper explorations that await in this tropical paradise.