Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum
London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is set to unveil an exhilarating new exhibition titled “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” which celebrates the audacious and surrealist designs of the legendary Italian fashion house, Schiaparelli. This exciting showcase not only honors the creative genius of founder Elsa Schiaparelli but also bridges her iconic past with contemporary interpretations by current creative director Daniel Roseberry.
A Century of Art and Innovation
The exhibition takes visitors on a captivating journey through the last century of art and innovation within the couture house. From the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with notable artists like Salvador Dalí in Paris, to Roseberry’s current reign, which attracts global attention with its sculptural designs, the show captures the essence of a brand that unites fashion and fine art.
Iconic Collaborations with Salvador Dalí
Among the highlights of the exhibition is the surrealist masterpiece created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí, the “Lobster Telephone” of 1938. The piece will be displayed alongside the famous “Lobster Dress,” a striking white silk gown adorned with a vibrant red lobster, famously worn by Wallis Simpson, the socialite who captivated King Edward VIII. This intersection of fashion and art epitomizes Schiaparelli’s daring vision.
Another attention-grabbing piece is the “Skeleton Dress,” a black creation featuring 3D quilting that mimics human bone contours. This bold and avant-garde piece, showcased in 1938, was considered shocking for its time—a testament to Schiaparelli’s punk sensibility, as curator Rosalind McKever notes. Such designs defied fashion conventions and pushed the boundaries of what clothing could represent.
Artistic Alliances and Schiaparelli’s Legacy
Schiaparelli’s partnership with renowned French artist Jean Cocteau adds another layer of depth to the exhibition, highlighted by a stunning evening coat adorned with pink silk roses. Schiaparelli’s ability to intertwine fashion with fine art earned her recognition from her contemporaries. Coco Chanel once referred to her as “that Italian artist who’s making clothes,” a compliment that underscored Schiaparelli’s position within the artistic community.
From her early business in 1927 to her unmatched contributions to women’s fashion, Schiaparelli challenged norms. She designed practical yet imaginative garments, like leopard-fur shoes and tailored trouser suits—destined to become staples in women’s wardrobes. Iconic personalities like Mae West and Marlene Dietrich cherished her creativity, favoring her sharply tailored looks.
The Modern Influence of Daniel Roseberry
Although Schiaparelli stepped back from the fashion scene in the 1950s, her legacy continues through the modern lens of Daniel Roseberry. He has successfully reinterpreted Schiaparelli’s dramatic flair, captivating present-day audiences with innovative designs that resonate with contemporary fashion sensibilities.
One of the stars of the exhibit is a striking red jewel-encrusted gown worn by Ariana Grande during her medley performance at last year’s Oscars. This sumptuous ball gown features a whimsical ruby slipper protruding from the back, a nod to the timeless classic “The Wizard of Oz,” showcasing how Schiaparelli’s spirit continues to influence today’s red carpet fashion.
A Treasure Trove of Creativity
Beyond the gowns, the exhibition offers a treasure trove for art lovers, featuring sparkling cabinets filled with exquisite jewelry, ornate buttons, and beautifully crafted perfume bottles. Each piece serves as a work of art in its own right, reinforcing the idea that fashion can be a canvas for self-expression and creativity.
Exhibition Details
Opening on Saturday and running until November 8, “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” promises to be a transformative experience for visitors, inviting them to explore the rich tapestry of artistic collaboration and innovation that defines this iconic fashion house. It’s an opportunity to witness how fashion transcends mere utility to become a true form of artistic expression and cultural significance.