In recent years, the watch industry has seen a surge of interest from individuals seeking to profit from the growing market, resulting in a mix of authentic craftsmanship and lackluster designs within the “microbrand” scene. While some brands offer poorly thought-out replicas of iconic models like the Submariner or Explorer, a few stand out for their originality and commitment to quality. Among these, the Toledano & Chan b/1 is capturing attention with its unique aesthetic and thoughtful design.
The b/1, conceived by British-born, NYC-based artist Phil Toledano and Hong Kong-based collector Alfred Chan, is a fascinating blend of Brutalism and luxury. While it draws inspiration from the vintage Rolex Midas, the b/1 holds its own, offering a fresh perspective that pays homage to the broader watchmaking landscape. The design is reminiscent of high-end pieces from celebrated brands like Bulgari or vintage Piaget, yet it retains a charm that is distinctively its own.
The initial release of the b/1 in 2024 featured a striking stainless steel case combined with a lapis lazuli dial, which immediately made waves in the watch community. Its unique case design, inspired by the window architecture of the Met Breuer building in New York City, sets it apart from conventional timepieces. This model also includes a left-hand “destro” crown configuration and an integrated bracelet featuring seamless links, highlighting meticulous attention to detail. It houses an automatic Sellita movement, priced at $4,000, which, while steep for some microbrand enthusiasts, was welcomed by the community.
The success of the b/1 led to subsequent iterations, like the b/1.2, which replaced lapis lazuli with elegant Tahitian mother-of-pearl, leading to a price increase to $5,700. Both editions quickly sold out, showcasing a demand that can rival established luxury brands. A limited production version featuring all-meteorite construction was launched at $10,400 and, as with previous models, it quickly disappeared from shelves.
Fans of this design should certainly keep an eye out for the latest release, the b/1.3r. It is touted as the most aesthetically refined version yet, featuring a case crafted from lightweight titanium and an eye-catching 18K yellow gold dial embossed with a sand-like pattern. This latest iteration strikes a harmonious balance between architectural rigor and artistic flair, resembling exquisite artifacts one might encounter in the Mos Eisley Cantina — a true statement piece for the discerning watch collector.
In the b/1.3r, Toledano & Chan have not merely altered the dial; they have also refined both the case and bracelet, reducing the diameter from 33.5mm to a more wearable 32mm. This slight adjustment in size results in a lighter feel on the wrist while maintaining the signature multi-faceted crystal design that adds a unique flair to the case height, capped at a slender 12.4mm.
Powered by the Sellita SW100 automatic movement, the b/1.3r is offered without a seconds hand, embodying a vintage dress watch aesthetic. Retailing for $10,200, this limited edition (capped at 350 pieces) is anticipated to sell quickly when it launches on February 12 at 9 a.m. EST, especially given the enthusiastic response to previous models.
In a market largely dominated by major names like Richemont and LVMH, the b/1 series marks a bold entry from Toledano & Chan, a pair of creators whose passion for architecture, horology, and industrial design manifests in every facet of their offerings. The b/1.3r is not just another watch; it represents a significant development in the microbrand sector, showcasing how new voices can challenge luxury norms.
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