Tasting Notes: A Feast of Culinary Experiences in Los Angeles

Welcome to this week’s Tasting Notes, where I, Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, take you through a culinary journey featuring local events, restaurant highlights, and intriguing food culture. From celebrating the feel of an Italian festa in Altadena to the richness of the South Bay’s Japanese food scene, let’s dive into the vibrant tapestry of flavors this city offers.

Good Food, Good Wine, Good Neighbors

Italian sagras, or festas, are cherished gatherings that bring communities together over delightful regional dishes. When I reminisce about my trips to Italy with my late husband, Jonathan Gold, and chef Nancy Silverton, I can still hear the laughter around those long tables filled with locals pouring wine into plastic cups, enjoying plates of cinghiale and pasta.

In Altadena, the spirit of these Italian gatherings has been revived by Good Neighbor Bar and West Altadena Wine + Spirits. Founded by Randy Clement and April Langford, these establishments have fostered a sense of community through a summer pop-up series that showcases various local food vendors.

On Tuesday evenings, you’ll find Brisa Lopez Salazar’s Casa serving delicious tacos with unique tortillas. Thursday nights bring Triple Beam Pizza, while Fridays offer fresh oysters and poke bowls from Shucks Oyster Co. Through these events, families and friends gather in a welcoming outdoor space, reminiscent of the festivals I’ve adored in Italy, where the joy of food is enhanced by companionship.

When I visited recently, the vibrant energy outside the patio caught my breath. Families settled at reclaimed tables while kids played nearby. I couldn’t help but reconnect with old friends and share in the camaraderie over Triple Beam’s heirloom tomato pizza, washed down with outstanding local wines.

Japanese Food “Made the Japanese Way”

The South Bay area of Los Angeles is a treasure trove of Japanese cuisine. Home to one of the largest suburban Japanese communities in the U.S., it continues to celebrate its unique food culture. It’s heartening to see both longstanding establishments and new restaurants enriching the landscape, captured beautifully by our summer intern Lauren Ng.

She visited several local spots to compile a guide of 18 exceptional Japanese restaurants and food producers, celebrating the flavors that endure and evolve in this community. Historic names continue their legacy alongside innovative newcomers, weaving a rich narrative of culinary tradition and contemporary flair.

A Loss for Chinatown

The heartache of gentrification has reached Chinatown, with cherished spots like Yue Wa Market set to close after almost two decades. Owner Amy Tran has shared her emotional struggle as foot traffic diminished and robberies increased, pressures that are forcing many beloved businesses to shutter.

This narrative is echoed in downtown Los Angeles, where restaurants like Tokyo Fried Chicken have announced closures shortly after the pandemic lockdown, leaving a nostalgic void for their once-loyal patrons. There’s a bittersweet interplay of community love and the harsh economic realities of maintaining beloved local spots.

End of the Basque Road

In the San Gabriel Valley, Glendora Continental, notable for its mix of Basque and French cuisine, has put its doors up for sale after an impressive 45 years. This restaurant has become a gathering place for a fading cultural legacy, serving dishes like slow-braised lamb and escargots. Regulars show up not only for the food but for the live music, making every visit feel special.

Highlights of New Openings

Amidst the closures, Los Angeles continues to welcome new culinary endeavors. Chef Miles Thompson and Andy Schwartz have launched Baby Bistro, an “Angeleno bistro” that encapsulates the diverse culinary influences of the city. Taking inspiration from various food cultures, the menu reflects the very essence of Los Angeles.

For those seeking hidden gems, chef Jeff Strauss of OyBar is running Vey, a weekend-only tasting menu experience in a parking lot, coined as a “casual, rolling omakase.” Observing this blend of creativity and cuisine reminds me there’s endless innovation at play even in challenging times.

Noodles Made Easy

In our Chef That! series, Mei Lin, a celebrated chef from 88 Club, showcased an intriguing recipe for mung bean noodles. Her demonstration revealed that making noodles is more accessible than many might think. With simple ingredients and easy instructions, cooking becomes a fun way to explore your culinary skills and palate at home.

Celebrating Community and Sustainability

With the rise of sustainability-focused dining, I’m thrilled to see emphasis on less waste and community-centric experiences becoming increasingly prevalent. For example, the vibrant nightlife at Uncle Ollie’s Penthouse in downtown LA combines fun aesthetics, potent cocktails, and the feel-good vibes of sustainability. Guests keep their red Solo cups as a quirky nod to both waste reduction and a playful night out.

This week’s Tasting Notes highlights not only the food but the incredible people who dedicate themselves to fostering community through cuisine. Whether you’re discovering a new favorite spot or savoring traditional dishes, Los Angeles continues to embrace the diverse flavors that make our city unique.