Editorial Note: CNN Style is one of the official media partners of Paris Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week. This article collects reviews of the Couture Week events and the haute couture catalog.
The enchanting world of Paris Couture Week has once again taken center stage, offering a vibrant escape from the mundane. Among the highlights, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli showcased a standout piece: a dense feathered jacket complete with collar protrusions reminiscent of wings, a stunning 30 cm in height. This bold approach encapsulates the spirit of the week, where fashion transcends the ordinary and dips into the fantastical.
“The rest of the year is for reality.”
From the very beginning of the week, featuring a morning show by an American designer, Couture Week opened its doors to a realm of imagination. It’s not merely an escape from reality, but a celebration of playful creativity. Roseberry’s Schiaparelli collection prompts reflection on the evolving definition of beauty, represented through the sharp edges of horns, the softness of feathers, and bold neon accents, all while delivering a tangible sense of joy.
Couture is more than fashion; it’s an audacious expression of existence. Imagine dressing like a glamorous pre-Code film star (certainly a nod to Valentino), or perhaps donning a wedding dress with petals that gracefully disintegrate (an evocative design from Dior). Alternatively, consider a delicate ensemble comprising a silk muslin blouse and a robe embroidered with mushrooms from Chanel—such creations make us ponder what delightful possibilities could spring from wearing such exquisite pieces.
This season’s Couture Week was bustling with significant debuts, including Chanel and Dior, where Matthieu Blazy and Jonathan Anderson both presented their inaugural haute couture collections at their respective houses. There were echoes of legacy with Armani Privé holding its first show post-Giorgio Armani’s passing and Valentino presenting its latest collection after the loss of founding designer Valentino Garavani.
Representing a new generation, Blazy and Anderson possess a keen understanding of transforming established luxury into contemporary realities—Blazy through an empathetic lens, and Anderson with an intellectually driven yet heartfelt approach.
Blazy’s collection for Chanel spun a narrative of lightness. Ethereal dresses in silk mousseline blossomed, layered with luxurious feathers. The fabrics flowed with sophistication, evoking the spirits of past Chanel masterpieces while integrating modern elements like tweed jackets styled with jeans—echoes of Karl Lagerfeld’s creative legacy. Simple wool suits were also seen, featuring oval patches at the neck and sparkling cuffs that serve as perfect accents.
Meanwhile, Jonathan Anderson masterfully manipulated the stage, merging boldness with extravagance in his collection dubbed “Wunderkammer” or cabinets of curiosities. This display was not merely an assortment of quirky designs but a harmonious blend of sculpted silhouettes adorned with enchanting beetles and miniature portraits crafted into brooches. Despite facing online criticism after a previous menswear showcase, Anderson turned the narrative around by extending invitations adorned with cyclamen poetry, referencing John Galliano’s gesture during a past visit.
It is apparent that while Anderson captures a youthful audience’s imagination, some of his silhouettes lean heavily on skeletal structures, perhaps overlooking the nuances of the female form. This sparks a vital discussion about the potential hazards of an unrelenting pursuit of modernity.
Alessandro Michele of Valentino ventured into a similar exploration of reality versus fantasy, debuting his collection in a setting inspired by the early cinematic experience of Kaiser Panorama. His poignant commentary on perception, influenced by Walter Benjamin, resonated through designs that evoked a nostalgic wink to 1930s Hollywood. The models’ expressions were devoid of ordinary fashion’s restrictions, embodying an artistic narrative adorned with feathered headpieces and butterfly sleeves, transcending mere clothing to become whimsical costumes—immersive creations that transport one into a world of black-and-white romance.
As Michele articulated backstage, “You know, you can dream from concrete things,” sharing his motivation drawn from an extraordinary life filled with beauty. His goal is to weave every part of this experience into something dreamlike, presenting fashion as a portal to another realm.
As the lights dim and the spectacle of Couture Week concludes, we are reminded of the enchanting interplay between reality and fantasy woven throughout the event. It serves to reaffirm that in Paris, Couture exists as a unique haven where imaginative creativity thrives alongside the rigor of the real world, expanding the very horizons of fashion and culture.