Dressing for the Female Gaze: A Shift in Luxury Fashion
Introduction to the Concept
The idea of dressing for the “female gaze” has gained traction in the fashion world over the last decade. Coined in response to feminist theories, particularly Laura Mulvey’s 1975 essay on the objectification of women in film, this concept emphasizes the need for fashion to reflect a female perspective. It’s an essential conversation, especially as the luxury fashion industry grapples with an overwhelming male presence in executive roles and creative leadership.
The Gender Gap in Luxury Fashion
Within luxury fashion, the representation of female designers remains disappointingly low. However, when a woman does lead, her approach can radically shift the narrative. Bottega Veneta exemplifies this with its recent collaboration with British designer Louise Trotter. As she stepped into her role as creative director during Milan Fashion Week, the spotlight on her unique vision illuminated the potential for change in the industry.
The Unveiling of Trotter’s Collection
Trotter unveiled her first collection for Bottega Veneta in an understated yet captivating show at Piazzale Lodi. Gone were the extravagant sets of previous seasons; instead, the seating consisted of minimalist slabs of colorful Murano glass. This design choice encouraged attendees—celebrities like Julianne Moore and Uma Thurman—to focus solely on the clothes.
Heritage and Craftsmanship
Since taking the helm in January, Trotter has strived to reconnect with Bottega Veneta’s roots as a “Venetian artisanal shop.” Founded nearly six decades ago by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in Vicenza, the brand is distinguished by its commitment to high-quality craftsmanship. This dedication to artisanal creation was front and center in her first advertising campaign, showcasing the hands of artisans and public figures like Tyler the Creator and Zadie Smith.
Emphasizing Subtlety in Design
The collection underscored Trotter’s vision of “soft functionality.” Strikingly, the designs showcased no overt branding, inviting wearers to adopt a sense of confidence in their choices. Shoes and bags, crafted with the iconic “intrecciato” leather weave, took center stage, reflecting a modern twist on traditional craftsmanship, devoid of the loudly branded logos that often characterize luxury fashion.
Textural and Visual Elements
Trotter’s collection was rich in textures and offered a thrilling array of staple pieces. Outerwear, crafted from jacquard and leather, blended practicality with the avant-garde. Vibrant tops and tinsel skirts introduced bright, energetic dimensions to the runway, set against a custom soundtrack by British artist Steve McQueen. This combination of the simple and extraordinary made the collection both relatable and aspirational.
Innovative Silhouettes
Trotter has a distinctive design philosophy that envisions garments as sculptures rather than mere articles of clothing. Her creations typically maintain a thoughtful distance from the body, resulting in elegant forms that flatter without constriction. The inclusion of intentional design features, like an off-the-shoulder strap, adds a playful and unexpected twist to traditional silhouettes.
Market Position and Potential Impact
Amidst slowing sales trends across the luxury sector, Bottega Veneta has managed a 1% sales growth in the first half of 2025. Trotter’s influence on the brand’s trajectory is still developing, but her ability to create a hunger for her designs will be vital in capturing the ever-evolving consumer market. Stylish individuals, regardless of gender, are increasingly eager to wear pieces from her collection, further bolstered by social media visibility among influencers and celebrities.
Bringing Historical Context to Modern Design
Trotter draws inspiration from previous trailblazers like Laura Braggion, the first female creative lead at Bottega Veneta, who thrived in the dynamic landscape of 1970s New York. Trotter’s vision encompasses this legacy of feminist liberation and reinvention, providing a cultural context that resonates with today’s audience.
Final Thoughts
The conversation around the female gaze in fashion is moving beyond theory and into practice. Through the innovative lens of designers like Louise Trotter, there’s hope for a fashion future that honors diverse perspectives while redefining what luxury truly means.