Discovering KHAO: A Culinary Gem in Tokyo
To grasp the essence of KHAO, situated in the heart of Jimbocho, Tokyo’s historic “Used Book Town,” one must delve deeper than mere familiarity with Thai cuisine. Amid the charming façades of bookstores lies this treasure, which has garnered a prestigious One MICHELIN Star, awarded in the MICHELIN Guide Tokyo 2026, just one year after its inception. What sets KHAO apart from the myriad of Thai restaurants scattered throughout the city?
A Culinary Journey with Roots in Thailand
The influence of chef Eri Hozumi permeates every dish at KHAO, stemming from an early fascination with the vibrant flavors of Thai cuisine. Memories of dishes like green curry and tom yum kung at a local restaurant captivated her childhood palate. Upon turning twenty, she made the pivotal decision to work in a Thai eatery, igniting a passion that later led her to Thailand at the age of twenty-three. Here, she not only honed her culinary skills but also met her partner, Koichi Ishiyama, laying the groundwork for their future venture.
From Thailand to Tokyo: The KHAO Experience
After three years immersed in Thailand’s culinary culture, Ishiyama and Hozumi returned to Japan, launching a restaurant in Nagoya before eventually opening KHAO in 2024. The restaurant’s name, meaning “white” in Thai, symbolizes purity and an innocent heart—an apt reflection of the couple’s culinary vision. The menu, served as an exclusive set course, encapsulates a journey through Thailand, evoking feelings of travel from bustling Bangkok to serene Chiang Mai, all while highlighting Japan’s seasonal ingredients.
The Art of Flavors
Defining KHAO’s unique cuisine is a complex task, but Hozumi emphasizes two guiding principles: care and faithfulness. Ingredients are not merely gathered; they are chosen with meticulous care, sliced precisely, and handled with utmost respect. Each dish resonates with the warmth of Thai cooking while embracing Japan’s rich culinary traditions.
A signature dish, Khao Yam, features blue jasmine rice mixed with an array of vibrant vegetables like carrots and green beans, symbolizing the beauty of harmonious flavors. This dish, among others, strives to balance heat, acidity, and aroma, marrying lesser-known regional specialties with beloved favorites from major Thai cities.
More Than Just Food: A Thoughtful Presentation
KHAO’s thoughtfulness extends beyond the kitchen; the tableware also tells a story. Each dining experience is enhanced by exquisitely sourced Benjarong ceramics from Thailand, adorned with intricate, hand-painted patterns. This attention to detail elevates the dining experience, reflecting the couple’s commitment to authenticity in every aspect.
A Personal Touch and Shared Vision
Hozumi’s delicate yet precise movements while plating each dish reveal her deep affection for the ingredients at hand. “Our hope is that newcomers discover the appeal of Thai cuisine, while seasoned global diners encounter something found nowhere else,” she shares. This sentiment encapsulates the essence of KHAO: a place where every bite offers not just sustenance but an exploration of culture, tradition, and connection.
The couple’s dedication to infusing their experiences and learnings into KHAO has created a unique spot in Tokyo’s dining landscape—one that beckons food lovers to join them on this delectable journey through the heart of Thailand.
Written by Suma Wakui, a Digital Editor for Michelin Guide Japan, showcasing the delights of dining and travel while nurturing a passion for exploration.