Nestled within the bustling confines of a Shell gas station along Rockville Pike, a golden yellow food truck catches the eye. Recently, it found itself almost encased in ice, a relic of the frigid temperatures that had gripped the area. Yet, business at Hijos del Maíz has never been better.
At the helm of this cozy kitchen is Saul Zelaya, a seasoned chef who has navigated the culinary landscape of the Washington, D.C., region. Originally from El Salvador, Zelaya’s journey began when his family moved to Maryland when he was just 10. His culinary repertoire includes experience at renowned establishments like Summer House Santa Monica, Cava Mezze, the acclaimed Boogy and Peel, and Michelin-starred restaurants including Kinship and Rose’s Luxury.
Despite his experience, Zelaya felt a strong urge to carve out something of his own, and that dream persistently revolved around one essential ingredient: corn.
“I wanted to find something that I could identify myself with. Corn was something that I had grown up around,” Zelaya reflected. “Back in El Salvador, you eat corn tortillas with everything. My grandpa cultivated it, and I helped him. But when I moved here, there was none of that.”
Thus, Hijos del Maíz—playfully translated to “Children of the Corn” in homage to both his roots and the iconic horror movie—was born.
Officially opening its permanent location at 12151 Rockville Pike on January 10 after a series of pop-up events since 2021, the truck serves a concise but enticing menu featuring five foundational items, with plans to broaden the selection soon. Diners can enjoy tacos filled with succulent beef barbacoa or savory carnitas, as well as a massive torta.
A Hard Grind
While taco trucks have become a common sight throughout Montgomery County, Zelaya distinguishes himself through the craftsmanship of his corn tortillas. He sources bolita amarillo, an heirloom yellow corn from Oaxaca, Mexico, and employs a method called nixtamalization. This intricate process involves heating corn with water and calcium hydroxide to create nixtamal, which he then grinds and transforms into fresh tortillas on-demand in the truck.
Zelaya is all too familiar with the demanding hours of kitchen work. When asked about his start time on this particular Sunday, he replied with a wry chuckle, “At two. I got an hour and a half of sleep.”
For Zelaya, these sacrifices are steps toward the dreams he envisions for himself and his family. He yearns for more time with his children: a nearly seven-year-old daughter and an 18-month-old son. His wife, Yadira Torres, plays a crucial role in behind-the-scenes operations for the truck. Their partnership blossomed while they both served at Silver in Bethesda, and they rely on each other to navigate the tumultuous waters of business ownership.
“None of this happens without her,” Zelaya emphasized, acknowledging the challenges they have faced together. “This is a hard grind, and there have been times I wanted to give up, but she has been my support.”
Tortilla Magnifica
Since its debut, Hijos del Maíz has drawn a loyal following. Within weeks of opening, Zelaya experienced his first two sellouts, a surge he attributes to social media influencers and loyal patrons from a D.C. farmers market.
On my visit, I decided to explore some of Zelaya’s personal favorites. His tacos are served in a trio, allowing customers to mix and match meats or opt for refried pinto beans.
With a taste that quickly reveals itself as a standout, the barbacoa captivates diners with its robust flavor. Zelaya prepares a luscious mix of chuck roast and short rib, slow-cooked for eight hours, seasoned with a blend of guajillo and ancho chiles. The shredded beef is typically handled by hand, showcased during my visit by Zelaya’s friend, Oscar Mendieta, who helped manage the bustling rush.
The carnitas, on the other hand, feature a simpler method with pork shoulder and ribs seasoned with lard and salt, then cooked for two hours before receiving a satisfying sear.
But it’s Zelaya’s tortillas that truly shine. After grinding the masa, he presses out each tortilla and finishes it on a flat-top grill where they puff slightly before settling down. These tortillas deliver a subtle sweetness that complements the savory meat, and they’ve garnered immense popularity, often selling out at local farmers markets.
Zelaya’s wife, Yadira, suggested I try the torta, an indulgent choice that has rapidly gained a loyal following. Despite my initial reservations, I opted for the milanesa—a breaded and fried chicken breast adorned with creamy Oaxaca cheese, housemade escabeche, lettuce, tomato, refried beans, avocado, and a touch of Duke’s mayonnaise, which Zelaya humorously noted is one of the lone non-Mexican ingredients in the truck. All of this encased in fresh telera bread sourced from Wheaton’s El Sabor Latino Bakery.
I couldn’t resist inhaling half of the torta, a delicious reminder that sometimes the push of peer pressure can lead you to satisfying discoveries.
Trade in the Truck?
As the clock neared 1 p.m., Zelaya was still hard at work, filling both walk-up and online orders. This was his last day before the truck closed for its regularly scheduled Mondays. He was eager to finally spend some time with his family, especially with school being delayed for his kids, allowing them a rare moment to sleep in.
That day, Zelaya would again sell out before the typical 8 p.m. closing time. He knew that he’d need to think ahead for more food to bring to the truck and hoped the shipping delays caused by the southeastern winter storm would stabilize soon.
Zelaya dreams of transitioning from the truck to a brick-and-mortar restaurant, ideally in Gaithersburg, where he grew up. Until then, he would secure his yellow truck and brace himself for another round of the daily grind on Tuesday.