The Irony in Fashion: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s New Role
Staring into the piercing gaze of Maria Grazia Chiuri, one can’t help but feel a subtle tension. “Designers who are men can do womenswear,” she remarks, laced with heavy irony. “But designers who are women cannot do menswear.” This sharp rebuttal came in response to a question regarding her impending debut as Fendi’s Chief Creative Officer for menswear. The irony of her statement underscores the persistent misogyny rooted in the fashion industry, a revelation that has jolted many to confront longstanding biases.
Challenging Gender Norms
Chiuri’s words spark a conversation about gender expectations and the creative authority often attributed to male designers. With a knowing smile, she leans in and asserts, “Because geniuses are only men! Creative people, only men!” This rhetorical flourish not only highlights the absurdity of such beliefs but also draws attention to the systemic barriers women face in being recognized as equals in creative spaces. Reflecting on industry titans like Miuccia Prada and Coco Chanel, she questions why women are often relegated to the sidelines, their contributions overshadowed by the male narrative.
Chiuri’s Legacy at Dior
Chiuri’s own journey has been nothing short of transformative. In 2016, she broke ground by becoming Christian Dior’s first female Creative Director, primarily overseeing womenswear, haute couture, and accessories. Her nine-year tenure was marked by a feminocentric approach to design, resonating with clients and reshaping the discourse around women in fashion. Her collections, while sometimes polarizing among critics, achieved commercial success, nearly quadrupling revenues during her leadership. This disparity in perception—how a “big number” from a male designer is viewed as savvy business acumen while a similar success by a woman is often labeled as mere commercialism—speaks volumes about ingrained biases in the industry.
Defining Commercial Success
“Everybody remembers me because I did the big number in Dior!” she proclaims, underscoring the unfair dichotomy women designers frequently contend with. When men score big, it’s heralded as a testament to their business sense; when women do, it’s often dismissed as “commercial.” Chiuri’s emphasis on this cultural mentality challenges the stereotypes that persist in fashion circles, subtly pointing out the need for systemic change to truly level the playing field.
Returning to Fendi’s Roots
Now, as she prepares for her first menswear show at Fendi, Chiuri reflects on her early days at the house. The brand is where she embarked on her career as an accessories designer at age 24, and where she enjoyed support from the legendary Fendi sisters—Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda. This nurturing environment has often been characterized as a “sorority,” a stark contrast to the competitive landscapes presented by many of her male counterparts. This foundation seems pivotal as she steps into a new role, balancing her past achievements with future aspirations.
Acknowledging the Fendi Legacy
As Chiuri reclaims a narrative often dominated by the legendary Karl Lagerfeld, she insists on the importance of recognizing the contributions of the Fendi sisters. “Everybody speaks only about Karl Lagerfeld, like they did nothing. I’m sorry, eh,” she laughs, as though to simultaneously puncture the prevailing myths surrounding Fendi’s history and celebrate its significant female figures. “I’m really losing my temper!” Her laughter serves as both a release and a rallying cry for a more nuanced understanding of the brand’s legacy.
The Cultural Conversation Continues
With Chiuri at the helm, the dialogue around gender, power, and creativity in fashion has never been more urgent. Her candid remarks serve as both a reflection of her experiences and a broader commentary on the systemic issues women designers face in a male-dominated industry. As Fendi prepares for a new chapter under her leadership, the fashion world watches keenly, aware that Chiuri’s influence will likely extend well beyond the realm of design, fostering a culture of recognition, equality, and empowerment.