The Gastronomic Marvel of Wales: Ynyshir’s Michelin Double
Welsh restaurant Ynyshir, renowned for its extraordinary culinary offerings, continues to astonish food enthusiasts by retaining its prestigious two Michelin Stars at the 2026 Michelin Guide ceremony held in Dublin. This outstanding achievement is especially significant given the tumultuous start to the year for a restaurant that is famed for its extravagant £468-per-head 30-course tasting menu.
Michelin Recognition and Challenges
Ynyshir first captured the culinary world’s attention when it was awarded its two Michelin Stars in 2022, marking it as Wales’ first restaurant to achieve such an honor. The restaurant’s trajectory has been a rollercoaster ride; despite its remarkable accolades, it faced scrutiny after receiving a food hygiene rating of one out of five following a Food Standards Agency inspection in November 2025. The assessment found that major improvements were necessary in food safety management, while the handling of food was deemed “generally satisfactory.”
The Critics Weigh In
Despite the less-than-favorable hygiene news, prominent figures in the gastronomic realm have come out in support of Ynyshir. Giles Coren, a respected food critic for The Times, commended the restaurant on BBC Radio 4’s “World at One,” describing it as a “unique gastronomic experience.” He vividly illustrated the ambiance, stating, “It’s a different world. It’s crazy with fire. His kitchen is like a Vulcan smithy.” Coren depicted the intricate culinary techniques at play, blending both fire-based cooking and Japanese raw food practices, thus capturing the essence of today’s Michelin-starred cooking.
Chef Gareth Ward’s Perspective
Owner and head chef Gareth Ward, hailing from County Durham, has done much to redefine the culinary landscape at Ynyshir since taking over the Eglwys Bach hotel in 2013. After the hygiene report surfaced, Ward defended the quality of his ingredients, dismissing concerns over sourcing saffron-grade fish from Japan. He remarked, “Just because our rules don’t fit their rules, they’re questioning it.” This unwavering confidence in his sourcing not only highlights his commitment to quality but also showcases his resolve in the face of adversity.
Celebrity Endorsements and the Culinary Experience
Ward’s culinary journey at Ynyshir has captured the attention of numerous celebrities, including Ed Sheeran and TV chef James Martin, the latter of whom declared it the “best place to eat in the world.” The unique offerings at Ynyshir extend to its unconventional aging techniques, including a salt chamber specifically designed to mature seafood. For Ward, this technique is crucial, although it has faced skepticism from inspectors. He reflects on the mixed reception, articulating the fine line he walks as a modern chef seeking to revolutionize traditional practices.
Industry Buzz and Future Speculations
The culinary community is abuzz with speculation regarding Ynyshir’s potential for a third Michelin Star. Renowned chef Tom Kerridge has gone on record, suggesting that Gareth Ward is a strong candidate for this prestigious accolade at the next ceremony. “The big talk is, ‘is there going to be a new three star?’” he remarked, highlighting the excitement surrounding Ward’s innovative approach and the restaurant’s magnetic allure.
Gareth Ward’s unwavering dedication to pushing culinary boundaries at Ynyshir, even amid challenges, positions the restaurant as a force to be reckoned with in the fine dining industry. With its intricate tasting menu and innovative techniques, Ynyshir represents not only the gift of culinary artistry but also the essence of resilience in the restaurant world.